Market Watch, November 2019
NOVEMBER 2019 MARKETWATCHMAG COM MARKET WATCH 91PHOTO BY BOTTOM MICHAEL POEHLMANBalancing Fresh With FamiliarFurther south along Lake Michigan theres an AVA in Allegan County called Fennville founded in 1981 as the states first designated appellation and anchored today by Fenn Valley Vineyards Fenn Valley got its start in 1973 founded by Bill Welsch who had made his fortune running a chain of lumber yards in Chicago and his son Doug whos semi retired today Dougs son in law Brian Lesperance now runs the 55 employee operation as head of winemaking overseeing 240 acres and annual production of 60000 cases supplemented by a thriv ing hard cider business on the side Fenn Valley currently distributes in Michigan and Illinois In 2017 Lesperance put his non vintage lightly efferves cent Vino Blanco made from Seyval grapes in 375 ml cans selling them for 15 a 4 pack Fenn Valley also produces Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio as well as a 2016 Edelzwicker a blend of Riesling and Traminette priced at 12 a 750 ml but Lesperance has high hopes that the canned Vino Blanco will eventually sell far beyond the current distribution foot print We can grow Seyval in all conditions and have lots of it Lesperance says Like many Michigan wineries we dont worry so much about some of our other wines includ ing Chardonnay because we cant grow enough of those grapes to sell In recent years a number of Michigan wineries have started producing cider St Julian Winery which was founded in 1934 with a portfolio of sweet fortified wines made from Concord and Niagara grapes today produces ciders and runs a distillery that turns out brandy vodka and gin generally priced around 45 a 750 ml While the majority of Michigan wineries in the past three decades have moved beyond the sweet wine era to dry vinification St Julian located in the Lake Michi gan Shore appellation still unapologetically produces 85 of its wine in a sweet or semi sweet style The Midwest palate likes sweet says Nancie Oxley vice president and winemaker at St Julian who oversees a broad lineup that stretches from a non vintage Catawba rosé 8 a 750 ml to a Concord 8 to Vidal Blanc ice wine 15 a 375 ml Oxley doesnt lack ambition St Julian distributes to 11 states and hopes to land distributorships in Florida and Georgia soon In the meantime the winery keeps opening new tasting rooms it has a half dozen spread across western Mich igan and continues to sell 40 of its wines from its own facil ities St Julian and its farmer contractors continuously plant new grapes including Barbera Gamay cold climate Syrah and even Cabernet Sauvignon Pinot Noir grows really well in Michigan Oxley says Its become big here While winery tasting rooms are filled with tourists local restaurants and bars tend to favor out of state wines on their lists although the tide is turning In Traverse City Aerie restau rant and lounge in the Grand Traverse Resort seats 168 guests and offers a list with 152 labels stretching as high as the 2006 Opus One 475 a 750 ml Our focus on the list is Califor nia because that seems to be what people want says Max Bauer Aeries general manager and wine director And yet he notes that the 2015 Brys Estate Pinot Noir sells well at 55 a 750 ml while the 2013 Black Star Farms Leori a Merlot and Cabernet Franc blend is outrageously good at 72 The 2016 Left Foot Charley Murmur a blend of Pinot Gris Chardon nay and Pinot Blanc is popular at 33 With our climate the wines dont develop a lot of weight and sugar Bauer notes You have to settle for what youre given primarily lighter and lower alcohol styles Local wines are getting better and better here every year but the same can be said of wines made in Italy and just about everywhere else Michigan wine has to earn its place at the table mwAerie restaurant and lounge interior top in Traverse City Mich igan offers several local wines Mawby Vineyards tasting room above in Suttons Bay currently produces 25000 cases of wine a year ranking in the top ten among wineries in the state by volume
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