Market Watch, November 2019

NOVEMBER 2019 MARKETWATCHMAG COM MARKET WATCH 89PHOTO BY TK TKMuch of northern Michigan gets 2500 grow ing degree days which measure cumulative warmth each year on average Glacial depos its in the region have left sandy loamy soil perfect for vine growing Once viewed as an immovable issue snow is now playing a positive role in some Mich igan vineyards The Leelanau gets 120 inches of snow during an average winter a total that doubles in the worst years But winemakers have discovered that if properly managed snow can be plowed up and around vines and act as an insulator when temperatures fall Bad vintages like 2015 are often blamed more on wind and hail than on snow Midwestern RheingauWith 140 wineries spread among five AVAs Michigan ranks No 9 for number of wine producers in the U S The state is No 8 in terms of gallons 24 million and No 6 in the value of the wine it produces pegged at 19 million in 2017 according to Michigan Liquor Control But the volume totals tell only part of the story Theres a growing recognition that Michigans maritime climate integral to its top standing as a fruit growing state that supplies such companies as Welchs grape juice is instru mental to producing the best quality wines outside of Cali fornia Oregon Washington and New York Well traveled observers liken the climate and growing conditions in north ern Michigan to the Willamette Valley in Oregon and the Finger Lakes in New York though others believe its even closer to the Rheingau in Germany and Alsace in France People are making some serious wines in Michigan now says Ira Kreft assistant winemaker at Phelps Creek Vineyards in Hood River Oregon who has a home in northern Michi gan Winemakers here are on the cutting edge willing to plant grapes like Tempranillo and even Blaufränkisch Theyre quite daring Indeed a small urban winery based in Traverse City called Left Foot Charley produces a Blaufränkisch rosé 17 a 750 ml and another wine made from a seldom planted German Austrian grape called Kerner 20 Owner and wine maker Bryan Ulbrich who founded Left Foot Charley in 2004 has persuaded local growers to plant such unusual varieties He now makes 10000 9 liter cases of wine a year along with 10000 cases of cider and distributes his products as far afield as New York and Washington D C Out East people tell us the last thing they want to see is more Chardonnay says Ulbrich We make Pinot Blancs priced at 18 that will hold up against similarly priced Pinot Blancs made anywhere else Michigan once had a commodity crop mentality but now its all about better quality Wine makers used to battle greenness and astringency in their finished products but theyve gotten better at structuring the canopy in the fields and positioning the shoots Its also helped that the climate has gotten warmer As for his Kerner and Blaufränkisch Ulbrich is seeing success thanks to younger sommeliers who are looking for unique and unfamiliar wines Among the states up and coming wineries is Mawby Vine yards in Suttons Bay which has produced only sparkling wines and ciders since 2000 Owner Larry Mawby is a modern Mich igan pioneer having settled in the area as a child when his parents who farmed cherries bought a farm in 1953 Mawby planted his first vineyards with Traminette in 1972 and in St Julian Winery bottles pictured in Paw Paw Michigan produces nearly 100 wines and 250000 cases a year crushing 3500 tons of fruit annually The winery entertains upwards of 1000 visitors a day at its six tasting rooms across Central Michigan MICHIGAN BOTTLED WINE GROWTH 2007 2017 millions of gallons Source Michigan Craft Beverage Council101520253035 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 09 08 07MW1119_